May - the month of the wild peonies of Măcin: a nice escape to nature

Macin Mountains are the oldest mountains in Romania and among the oldest in Europe, with an age of over 250 million years (Hercynian period). They are located in Tulcea county, in the northern part of Dobrogea, between the Danube and the Danube plain, and the highest peak - Peak Țuțuiatu - it only has an altitude of 467m.

They are characterized by a gentle relief, with eroded ridges, but spectacular thanks to the granite shapes sculpted by wind and rain. It's here that you get the best sense of how time has passed and how high these mountains were in their time. Here you can see up to 1,800 plant species and numerous species of birds, reptiles, including the Dobrogean turtle.

About the Dobrogean Wild Peony

The ideal time to hike here is definitely spring when all nature comes to life and temperatures are bearable. I guess you've realized it, but summer here is extremely hot and on the trails it's very hard to find a place with shade. Another reason to choose April-May is the flowering of the dobrogean wild peony. It is a rare, legally protected flower with a monument of nature status. It is a symbol of wilderness and natural beauty in south-eastern Romania. It blooms in the month of May, and this precious moment is marked with the National Day of the Peony which is on May 15, which aims to promote peony as Romania national flower..

So being protected by law and being designated as Romania's national flower, it would be right and ethical to not to break the flowers because they won't last in the home environment anyway. It's nice to let nature take what is nature's and we just be mere observers and enjoy the moment!

Camping and comfortable accommodation around the Măcin Mountains

We have been 3 times so far in the Măcin Mountains and we will definitely come back again because we like this area very much. We go with our tent and we have stayed twice at a campsite and an off camping. Turtle Camp is the landscaped campsite and it's super nice, in a gorgeous orchard, with communal dining areas, 2-3 outside toilets and showers and plenty of room for everyone. But I recommend you call the phone number on the Facebook and make a reservation because this late spring is extremely busy.

Regarding off camping, we stayed near Pietrele Maria, it's a quiet grove where a lot of tent and caravan travelers gather, but it has none of the conditions of a paid camping. The location here.. Our tent is for 3 persons with veranda, purchased from 4camping and it's super good and sturdy. The rest of the equipment like sleeping bags, mattress, kitchen furniture are from Decathlon.

However, if you don't want to stay in a tent because you're not comfortable with this style, here are some nice accommodations in the area:

Routes where you can see wild peonies

I would like to introduce you to two trails where you can see these beautiful flowers, but also enjoy the surprising nature of these mountains of Dobrogea.

The Cozluk Valley trail - the best known for the peonies

Technical details

The trail entrance is pretty close to the off campground above, near Pietrele Mariei. As an idea, we did this exact trail on May 15, 2022 and this is what the forest looked like.

The route is not difficult at all, it's a walk with a little difference in level through a fabulous oak forest, where here and there bushes full of wild peony appear. In springtime, as you can see in the pictures, the whole forest is raw green and full of all sorts of bird and butterfly specific to the area. Although this trail is not difficult, you still need to be properly equipped to avoid accidents, you need to have enough water with you as there are no water springs and it is hot, food and energy bars and sunscreen. I would even recommend you leave quite early to avoid the high lunchtime temperatures and the crowds, which inevitably will be there due to the popularity of the flowers. The last 30 minutes of the route are on an asphalt road with no shade.

There are places where maybe there are fallen branches or the slope seems a bit steeper, but nothing to be scared of. I saw a lot of families with children on this trail. Personally, so many chirping birds nowhere have I heard or seen anywhere on the trails followed, nature so awakened to life, and everything so green. It was among the most peaceful trails followed, maybe also because there are no dangerous wild animals in the area (only at night, jackals, but far away), but we heard the hum of nature continuously and it was a form of meditation.

The route to Țuțuiatu Peak

Technical details

We did this route twice: the first time in September 2021 when everything was desert but the temperatures were a bit more bearable, and the second time was on May 5, 2025, to see the peonies.

This last time, I joined an initiative a bit different from the classic trail: together with my mom (who is a teacher) and the guide from GetOutRomania I participated in a hike with 5th graders with the goal of having their first hike and seeing the wild peonies. Basically, it took us much longer to hike it and we had more fun with the little kids who were strangers to hiking, but maybe we sparked their interest in the hobby.

And if you also want to go to the mountains and you don't have anyone to go with, I highly recommend you to go with Mihai, the guide who represents GetOutRomania. He does super beautiful routes both in the mountains of Romania, as well as various trips outside the country with a focus on mountain trails: Madeira, Dolomites, Triglav and many others. We have chosen to go on the more unknown tours in Romania and where there is a higher possibility to meet bears, and every time we liked it. Check out the Facebook, but also the Instagram to keep up to date with all upcoming events.

The trail starts with a slightly steeper climb on a section where there is no shade and the heat is a bit extreme. At the first fork, we turned right and continued on the route marked with a blue triangle, but also with a C which is the cycle route. It's a little longer this way, but also easier, traveling on a mostly forest road with a slight incline. There are shady sections here, but it's good to be prepared with sunscreen and a hat.

All along the trail, the scenery is super beautiful, towards the village of Greci and the surrounding agricultural areas. As you climb, you'll cross wooded areas and encounter granitic formations typical of the Macin Mountains. Once you reach a grove where it looks like the ideal place to take a break, continue however on the blue triangle to the left for another 20 minutes or so to the summit. This section has the steepest slope and looks the most complicated, but the views are worth it, even if the 467m altitude doesn't impress you. Well, just along this path, we found a few bushes full of peony that were blooming beautifully, but many more buds that were just waiting to burst.

After the well-deserved break at the summit of the peak, if you still have the energy, turn back at the fork and climb the opposite road, marked with the C, because there you will find the Ghiunaltu Peak which is 443m high. I didn't make it there this time (I already made it in 2021), but just know that it doesn't take more than 30 minutes to deviate from the main route.

We took a different road for the way back, still following the blue triangle. The road took 1 hour and was mostly through the forest and quite slippery areas due to the dry ground. You'll still get to the first junction where you started from morning and from there on the unshaded road to Greci. Along the way there's a good chance you'll encounter Dobrogean tortoises and it's nice to leave them alone and admire them in peace.

Conclusion

I love this little-known area of Romania because it's so close to home and because of how beautiful nature looks in the spring months. In the woods there's a constant buzz from the birds, and everywhere there are so many wildflowers that smell just like spring. And another reason why I like the Măcin Mountains: I realize how small we are in front of nature and how much time has passed over the Planet and how it looks now, in the present moment.

I hope this little guide has helped you to put the Măcin Mountains on your list of hikes in Romania. Again, I recommend you choose the months of April-May for the boom of color and divine smell. But remember not to break the peonies and just enjoy what you see. Don't forget to keep following me for even more mountain trail stories! 🙂